Fashion is my Imaginary Friend

Agi & Sam: Making their debut at London Fashion Week as part of Fashion East, the design duo take Fresh Prince as the inspiration for their collection

2011-03-22T15:01:00.000-07:00

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Agi & Sam are a print based menswear label working on their second collection together. Having showed at LFW as part of Fashion East, it was a huge step up from the sand filled installation they exhibited at Vauxhall Fashion Scout last September. Both Agape Mdumulla and Sam Cotton seem intrinsically linked, not only in their ideas but in their manner and humour, being totally laddish about each other’s strengths and slagging each other off at the name of famous designers one has worked for. Without sounding cheesy, they say they bring out different sides to each other that once combined make for extremely interesting print based designs. They spoke to Dazed Digital about their speedy rise in the fashion world and how their lives turned upside down as they look to the Fresh Prince to guide them.

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Dazed Digital: How did the idea of starting a label first come about?
Sam: After completing our degrees in 2008, mine in Illustration and Agi’s in Fashion Design, we headed for London seperately to intern and we met at Alexander McQueen. We both stayed for a collection or two there doing some great work and then I moved to work at other design houses such as Karl Lagerfeld, J.W Anderson, Carolyn Massey and Blaak Homme. We would constantly be applying for jobs and it was almost like we were in limbo with it. We couldn’t go into junior levels because we had too much experience but then we weren’t experienced enough to go into senior or middleweight designer positions.
Agi: Yeah especially after being in a place like McQueen where it is so creative and every day is different- you don’t just sit down in front of a computer or a desk and just draw or whatever, you literally do everything and anything. To then go and do something quite regimented and restricted wouldn’t be good so we just decided to do our own thing.
Sam: ...Our ideas tend to become linked without even knowing. Like last collection when I asked Agi what he wanted to do and I suggested we do something Native American inspired he whipped out notes he had previously scribbled down all about Native American culture and to this day, he still believes he told me about his idea.

DD: So do you always come up with a theme for your collections?

Sam: It sort of depends really. We try to engulf ourselves in the season and it usually happens for us just when the other season is coming together, similar to everyone else’s trends really. This season has been about the Fresh Prince of Bel Air. That literally came from us sitting watching the Fresh Prince on TV every day while doing the collection and just thinking ‘this is quite a good starting point’. So then from there we just started looking at every angle of it and immersing ourselves in it. From nineties music to the art scene with Jean-Michel Basquiat, Keith Harring and Bridget Reilly, and just going to as many exhibitions as we can. We just literally try and live it. This is why we do a collection; we enjoy the subject matter on it so whatever we’re basing a collection on we want to get something out of it.
Agi: It’s similar to how we justify what we design. The collection should be wearable. When I’m designing I’m constantly thinking ‘would I wear that’ and if I wouldn’t, chances are I wouldn’t make it either.

DD: Who do you see wearing your clothes?

Agi: Probably a guy between the ages of 20 and 50. Someone who is creative and who appreciates longevity and craftsmanship rather than someone who follows trends.

DD: What will stand out for Agi & Sam against all the other new labels out there?

Sam: Obviously print is the main thing for us and that’s one thing that’s never going to change. We want to take print on in a different way. We love traditional print and would love to do more of that kind of stuff too but we’ve been looking at digital prints specifically for this season- looking at a way of reinventing it. The problem with digital print is that it can look so flat and computer graphically printed. Last season we did a lot of print that emulated wools to give off a wool texture with Fair Isle for example. Makes it a bit unique I think.
Agi: Definitely, it gives it another dimension and level. It’s taking something that is really flat and making it more than just a print. Colour is another thing that we like to do differently. Colour comes more naturally to me than Sam for instance as I can sort of see colours matching even if they seem like they wouldn’t go together. I like to see what happens with it and use it as a progression of it doesn’t work and you can just edit it out.
Sam: It’s quite refreshing how we jump into it as well. People become so logistical in the way they look at colour with colour boards and palettes but Agi looks at colour and says ‘It will work, trust me’. This is something I have learned from him as my illustrations pre-Agi were quite dark. Without sounding ridiculous I guess you can say that Agi brought out a colourful side to me!

DD: You seem to base a lot of choices on instinct…

Agi: Yeah we feel the fashion industry can be very serious and regimented whereas we like to follow our gut feeling on things. I’ve never been very good at sitting down with a pen & paper and logistically coming up with designs. I always have loads of ideas in my head. I prefer to start quite large, use whatever colours I want and think about prints but just have everything laid- then you can start thinking about editing down.
Sam: We’ve worked with and for people where fashion has been everything and it is taken far too seriously and becomes a person. We do appreciate that because to an extent fashion is our life as well but at a certain point it becomes an obsession and isn’t necessarily good for a label. You know if you love something so much people say you shouldn’t actually give too much of your time to it because it starts to become a chore. We don’t want that to happen with fashion for us, we’d rather do our designs without the seriousness matter of life and death as although we love it and love everything we do - it is just clothes at the end of the day.

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Read Article Here on Dazed Digital: http://www.dazeddigital.com/fashion/article/9389/1/rise-agi--sam

Tweed Crazy

2010-07-21T02:22:00.000-07:00

Sorry for no-nay-never posting over the past few weeks, my final major project has taken over my life. I'm doing a tweed inspired magazine, have a photo shoot tomorrow with some amazing tweed suits from Huntsman on Saville Row so I will post them pictures when I get the chance. I will be all yours come September. I promise. Here are some tweed images that I have been looking at to spark some ideas. They might encourage you to do something yourself!

World Cup Fever

2010-06-14T03:42:00.000-07:00

World Cup fever is among us and already the likes of Wimbledon have been cast aside for the biggest sporting event in the world. With Ireland's failed campaign thanks to a blatant handball by Theirry Henri, I have decided to support Spain because a friend of mine is from Spain, and they also seem to have the most aesthetically pleasing team with Fernando Torres, Xabi Alonso, Gerard Piqué and Pepe Reina. That and their football skills of course.

Everyone has been hit with the fever, even in the fashion industry. Louis Vuitton have designed a custom-made, 18-ct-gold travel case for the gold World Cup trophy in their signature LV print and colouring. Unveiled by Naomi Campbell, the trophy will be carried around South Africa in this beautifully crafted case until it is presented to the winning team. (Spain, of course)

"We are very proud to have been chosen by FIFA to create the case in which the world's ultimate sporting prize will in future travel the globe," a spokesperson for Louis Vuitton said. "This exceptional commission truly honours Louis Vuitton's 150- year tradition of craftsmanship and savoir-faire. We are also delighted to be part of the great festival of football that the 2010 FIFA World Cup promises to be, and to renew our ties with the host country South Africa, with which we have had for many years a very special relationship."

Something pretty to look at...

My Penny Lane Moment

2010-06-11T13:57:00.000-07:00

The Strokes have been at the forefront of the music scene for the last decade, storming into the limelight with their debut album 'Is this it?' in 2001 and unleashing a guitar sound that was unheard of before. Five New York rich kids were behind this innovative sound that after a week of release, had everyone around the globe trading their skate shoes in for converse.

The band had not played together since October 2006 and have a few festival dates lined up, with Julian Casablancas, the lead singer, set to perform in between those dates with his own solo album, Phrazes for the Young. Their first port of call was set to be the Isle of White festival this weekend followed by a set on Sunday in Rockness, Scotland, but a photo posted on their Twitter caused speculation of a London warm up gig. Under the name Venison, tickets went on sale for £10 for a gig on Wednesday 9th June in Dingwalls, Camden,with no more than a 500 capacity which is reminiscent of their earlier choice of venue.

And so the adventure began. Record label connections, journalist bosses and Irish charm weren't enough to get me into the gig. We knew we were in the right place when we saw Ryan Jarman from the Cribs enjoying a pint in the courtyard as we stood at the barrier, along with a couple of hundred other hopefuls. The tickets had sold out in less than two minutes with the rest of the tickets going to guest list and industry people only. After a word with a barman and an attempt of trying to give out to two kids selling their tickets for £300, we got a tip off that the band would be entering the venue from the high street. We sauntered around the corner to suss out the area and saw a few other fans had the same idea. A rent-a-car pulled up, and all of a sudden, five beautiful men started walking towards us. Albert Hammond Junior with his usual slacks and suit jacket, Fab and Nicoli briskly brushing past with gear, Nick donning an orange tiger jacket over an oversized tank, and Julian in a tattered studded leather jacket, white high tops, sunglasses and a green hair extension flapping in the wind. I started walking toward him before my body could comprehend what was happening and a handshake and a quick 'How's it going man' set me up for life.

Adrenaline pumping, we knew we had to get in somehow. From the pub upstairs, there was another back staircase leading to the intimate venue. The security guard turned his back for one second and I knew it was now or never. Putting my high jump skills to the test, the red velvet rope was the only thing in my way and as soon as I had cleared that I knew I had to run. The drones of New York City Cops was the soundtrack to my break-in, and just top be sure, I bolted for the front in order to blend in. Those security guards, they aint too smart.

The crowd were going insane. Old favourites such as 'The Modern Age', 'Hard to Explain', 'What Ever Happened?', and 'Reptilia' sent us into a frenzy. All Julian could muster was a reiteration that this was their first gig in four years which added to the hysteria. The band gelled as if they had never stopped touring and their on stage chemistry was at its peak. Roadies came onto the stage to protect the pedals and amps from the dripping ceiling, and the band sweat with the rest of us. The crowd shouted up requests, with 'Juicebox' being the over riding song to which Julian replied 'Oh I don't think you're ready for that yet'. A note perfect Red Light calmed the crowd, and they ended the main set with a raging rendition of Last Nite.

The packed venue consisting of fans and celebrities alike such as Chris Martin, Zane Lowe and Edith Bowmen, screamed VENISON in unison as they returned to the soaked stage and leaped straight into 'Under Control' and '12.51'. Albert lit up a cigarette as he jammed with his white guitar. An apt choice for an encore, Take it or Leave It rounded up the experience excellently.

To meet your heroes is one thing, but to see them live in a tiny venue playing all their hits was another. Words can only describe the elation, but the memories are locked away for me to enjoy every time a Strokes song comes on my ipod.

You Only Live Once.

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New York City Cops
The Modern Age
Hard to Explain
Reptilia
What Ever Happened?
You Only Live Once
Soma
Vision Of Division
I Cant Win
Is This It
Someday
Red Light
Last Nite

Encore:

Under Control
12:51
Juicebox
Heart in a Cage
Take It or Leave It

Watch a video of Last Nite here on Pitchfork.

She's a Swann Fatale

2010-05-13T05:15:00.000-07:00

Tucked away beside a hearth in one of Brick Lane’s many cafés sits a Swann. And no, it is not the bird kind.

Chloé Lenique is a singer-songwriter from Paris, France, interning at Dazed & Confused magazine as part of her advertising degree. The name Swann, she explains, is a character from a Proust book, A la Recherche du Temps Perdu. “Swann is a man who loves art and who considers it is something that can convey much more than it seems to”. Apart from the little obstacle of the sex, Chloé does just that with her folk music, conveying emotions along with her tales of loneliness and love.

Paris has been her home since she was born and living in London for the past few months has had quite an impact on her. “London is much livelier than Paris. It has been a great experience. I’ve learnt to be more open-minded about everything and more confident as well. People here are more outgoing and less ‘classic’ than in Paris.” This classic look she speaks of sums her own style up perfectly. With chestnut brown hair and a blunt fringe, a black lace shift dress and little ankle boots, she is the epitome of Parisian Chic. She does however, “like the idea of making Parisian style less classical with a pair of Topshop shoes for instance”. She’s a fan of French designers and notes Claudie Pierlot’s retro looks as a point of style inspiration.

The twenty one year old and her younger brother “grew up to the sound of music”, as she aptly puts it. Her mother’s guitar playing inspired her to pick up the instrument herself and she recalls music being played during dinner and whilst in the car. “I can remember listening to my Mum’s records of Leonard Cohen and Neil Young when I was eleven and to my Dad’s records of the Rolling Stones and Lou Reed when we were in the car. It has always been very natural in our family and this taught me to be very open-minded about music”. This influence so young sparked a rebellious side to Chloé as she recalls her first record she bought was something to the effect of ‘Barbie Girl’ by Aqua. She laughs whilst trying to justify the purchase, but comes to the conclusion that there is no acceptable excuse for such bad taste in pop music. Of course, we’ve all had one of those embarrassing music store impulse buys that we danced around our bedroom to so we’ll let her away with that one.

Playing live holds a big place in Chloé’s heart, and the emotive way she performs proves this. “Playing live for me is both a challenge and a painful moment. Not in a bad way, I mean, I need to feel my songs from the inside every time and be very concentrated, that’s why it’s painful. It’s a moment when I have to face fear and pain”. This pain and fear she recounts is not witnessed while she is on stage as it seems she is at home up there, with her guitar as a shield perhaps. On some of her London performances, Stephen Munson has accompanied her on stage with a harmonica, electric guitar and backing vocals, and this elevates her performances in bigger venues. But on songs such as ‘Lovely Girl’ and ‘Will I see you’, her folk influenced voice bellows out and captivates the room in an instant. Her favourite gig so far has been at The Old Blue Last, Shoreditch, but she also made a trip home albeit volcanic ash to play a gig at L’International which stands out for her also.

Inspiration for her heart felt songs depends on her mood. “Sometimes I feel like writing the lyrics first or sometimes the melody comes to be first. But the most important thing is that I always work on both at the same time so they’re coherent and one sticks to the other perfectly”. Her slow tempo songs are infused with ideas of loneliness and sadness, topics which often remain unanswered. “I write the words that come to my mind naturally. Most of the time, I won’t really know why I wrote it and it’s only a few days or months down the line when I understand”. Her demeanour is reminiscent of a young Francoise Hardy or Nico, the latter whom which she is a fan of along with the Velvet Underground. Some of her favourite haunts in London are flea markets and record shops where she recently picked up a copy of The Tallest Man on Earth’s latest record The Wild Hunt. Her eclectic music taste, she feels, is noted in her songs and that it’s a mix of all the music she loves.

Chloé’s time in London is drawing to a close and soon it will be back to Paris to record another demo. She also hopes to tackle an album, one that will be flowered with more country and folk filled songs no doubt. Next time a swan glides gracefully down a river or lake, be sure and listen to the joyous delights of Swann. You will not be disappointed.

www.myspace.com/swannmusic
Upcoming Gigs: The Constitution (London) 21st May
Le Bus Palladium (Paris) 18th September

Bill Hicks Lives On

2010-05-11T08:20:00.000-07:00

Bill Hicks was a true visionary in the world of comedy who highlighted the corrupt politicians and commented on the US' major hiccups in both an intellectual and humorous manner. His abrupt jokes and harsh beliefs paved way for a new generation of thought provoking comedy, but his status has yet to be overthrown.

"Fifteen years after his death, Bill Hicks is now more popular than ever, and is widely regarded as one of the best comedians of the modern era. However, in America, where he challenged institutions and accepted ways of thinking, he suffered censorship and was never truly recognised. In the country which enshrines freedom of speech in its constitution, his story is truly about what it means to be an American. American: The Bill Hicks Story blends interviews and historical footage with a stunning new animation technique – manipulating 1,000s of photographs to uniquely immerse the audiences in Hicks’ world."

http://www.americanthemovie.com/">

Here is a list of the main British and Irish showings:
London Curzon Soho 14.05.10
London Greenwich Picture House 14.05.10
London Odeon Covent Garden 14.05.10
London Ritzy Brixton 14.05.10
London Screen on the Green 14.05.10
London Clapham Picturehouse 15.06.10
London Stratford Picturehouse 15.06.10
London Brentford Watermans 18.06.10
Glasgow Glasgow Film Theatre 14.05.10
Edinburgh Cameo 14.05.10
Edinburgh Filmhouse 29.05.10
Dublin Irish Film Institue 14.05.10
Cardiff Chapter 14.05.10
Bristol Cube 14.05.10
Manchester Printworks/Odeon 14.05.10

Extra Extra!

2010-05-11T07:06:00.001-07:00

It's one thing to have a blog and publish your work online, but to see it in print in magazines is such a wonderful experience. I was lucky enough to be published in both Dazed & Confused's May Issue with Tilda Swinton on the cover, and Velour's first edition this month. The two copies sat side by side in the local newsagents and both had a similar colour schemes which made them stand out on the fashion magazine packed shelf. To quote Penny Lane in Almost Famous, "It's all happening..."

The Passion of Joan of Arc (Dazed & Confused May Issue)

2010-05-04T15:44:00.000-07:00

The Passion of Joan of Arc, a silent film directed by Carl Theodor Dreyer in 1928, is being musically reinvented by Adrian Utley of Portishead and Will Gregory of Goldfrapp. The two artists have previously collaborated on a few different projects and a film score was their next port of call. Adrian admits that “We want to bring our own kind of musical aesthetic to it but without forcing it onto the film”. This new venture will encourage them to take the inspirations from their respective bands and unite on this iconic film about the trials of Joan of Arc. Will is “just delighted to be able to get our hands on all those different sonic possibilities”. The new score will be performed at the screening by Utley and Gregory, along with the Monteverdi Choir under the conductor Charles Hazlewood and is sure to enlighten the audience with an original collective sound. Adrian closes with a promise to create something innovative for the film; “We’ve deliberately tried not to listen to any music that has previously been composed for it because we just really want it to be something that is totally original”. The film will be shown at the Colston Hall, Bristol, on Saturday 8th May.

Full interview with Adrian Utley of Portishead and Will Gregory of Goldfrapp.

How did the project come about? Were you approached separately or together?

Adrian: Well Will and I had done things together before and we have this connection with Mark Cosgrove at the Watershed cinema, an independent cinema here in Bristol and he really started the ball rolling by showing us loads of films. Will and I wanted to collaborate on something and Will had already done a film score in fact you had done quite a lot hadn’t you Will?
Will: Yeah a lot of silent films.
Adrian: It went on from there really. And we decided we wanted to do one together and with Mark we watched a load of films and then decided on The Passion of Joan of Arc.

Was there any particular reason why you chose that film?

Will: Yeah I think that when you’re working to a silent film you’ve got to be careful. There’s a lot of films out there which are wonderful films but are very narrative driven, edit driven or plot driven in a way that makes writing music for them much more difficult. It puts you into a very much supporting role where the music is just serving the function of helping to tell the story which is fine. But if you’ve got a lot of edits or jump cuts a lot of change of plots or locations it’s actually quite hard to write a continuous piece of music that sort of adds up to something in it’s own right. Whereas this is one of the very few silent films where that is totally not the case. It’s very much these long slow moving, often very beautiful, close ups- yeah it’s got these close ups where the faces becomes sort of landscapes. It just means that you’ve got a tremendous amount of time to breathe with the film but also kind of go in your own musical direction in a way that’s not going to inhibit some of the musical directions that you might want to go in.
Adrian: Which was what were very keen to do, fairly strong ideas about kind of what we wanted to do musically or at least we can start to think about doing or experimenting with. And you know like Will said because of that narrative thing it’s actually really hard to find any films where you can do that, it’s incredibly difficult. And also ones that haven’t been really done many times before. I guess a lot of people are approaching silent films in the same way, there are people that are absolutely amazing at writing music or improvising to silent films in the old way but we just desperately didn’t want to do that. We want to bring our own musical aesthetic to it but without forcing it onto a film. And this seemed like it really would fit you know.

How do you plan on separating your work with Portishead/Goldfrapp from the score in order to create a unique sound for the film?

Adrian: From my point of view, my work that I do with Portishead is within that world. And sometimes it’s incredible, we have so many rules about what we will and what we won’t do within our music writing that there’s a whole world of music that I really want to explore that I couldn’t possibly explore with Portishead if you know what I mean so it’s a very good chance for me to explore those things with somebody like Will who I’ve worked with for many years and really enjoyed that other side of my life.

Will: Also I think that collaborations are very much about the chemistry between the people involved, and I think that you know obviously Adrian collaborates with Jeff and Beth and that I one set of kind of outcomes and you know I collaborate with Alison and that’s another but I think the mere fact that we’re collaborating with each other mean it will again be something automatically different. It is going to be very different what will come out of that just because of the two different heads.

Did you study the film and the original score, or try to steer clear of previous scores eg Cat Power?

Adrian: We chose to ignore it really. I’ve never heard the Cat Power one I don’t know if you have Will. I’ve heard the orchestral/choral score that was done for it, and you know that’s completely brilliant in its way is fantastic but its completely nowhere near what we want and it’s not really going to influence what we do. It’s really important not to listen to those things, I prefer to just take it as a piece of film and start from there

How much does it differ from the original score itself?

Adrian: We’re in the process of writing it at the moment, we’ve just started now.
Will: We haven’t even written it yet which is all rather previous, we’re slightly, eh we’re just trying to work it out basically!
Adrian: That’s what I was saying about it, being a chance to do this thing I don’t/usually do. I’ve been working with electric guitars like a mass, I’ve just did a piece where I’ve picked the electric guitar not long ago so for me this is a voyage of discovery in that world and um for Will also I guess. But Will you’ve been working with Choirs haven’t you for a bit?
Will: Well I think that was it really, we decided the parameters that we wanted to, because obviously we’ve talked about things we’ve really wanted to do over the years and so we decided that we wanted guitars, we wanted a choir. I think there’s a very strong religious subtext to the film where it’s sort of 3D printed onto the screen. But I think for that reason a choir would be kind of appropriate sound world but obviously how would you explore that and use that. I think we’re just delighted to be honest to be able to get our hands on all those different sonic possibilities. What is fantastic about working with Charles Hazlewood the conductor is that he’ll hopefully be able keep it going while we’re dealing with the fact that we’ve got to play a part on guitars or synths or whatever it is that he’ll be there sort of keeping everyone together and cueing all the things happen in the right places so that will be taking weight off our shoulders.
Adrian: Exactly he’ll take total responsibility for that
Will: Ye see he’s so good it won’t go wrong! So that’s good thinking.

And will you be be performing it on the night live?

Adrian: Yeah it’s going to be in the Colston Hall in Bristol which is cool and we’re quite keen to do it in places that generally aren’t cinemas so we’re looking at various venues for it to live on a bit longer and do some more performances, possibly in different spaces other than cinemas. So you know it would be great to do it in a church for instance cause it has, well the music we’re writing will suit and certainly the subject matter will suit well for being in a church.
Will: It’s a totally new score. And I think we’ve deliberately tried not to listen to any music that has previously been composed for it because I think we just really want it to be something that is totally original for this film. The great thing about film is that it’s a kind of thread which can draw a lot of different elements together and so we’re going to be able to go a lot of different places in the music. And the film actually is quite linear in the way that it looks which means that the more variety that you can bring to it in the music the better it’s going to be. So really it’s a great platform for music I think this film in a kind of unique way.

What kind of research have you done in terms of the film, have you read the transcripts from the trials or anything like that?

Adrian: Well we have got the transcripts of the trials that were actually published which might in some way kind fit in with hat we’re doing. But I think doing something like this gives you an opportunity to learn more about what was happening in the world at that time and it’s really interesting from that point of view, it’s a sort of lesson about history if you like. Although we’ll just be working to the film, just learning about what happened to Joan of Arc and what was happening at that time in history has probably formed our opinion of the film as well.

Will: Yeah I mean I think film buffs generally are very in love with silent film because it’s such a pure expression and it’s also right at the beginning of the birth of cinema so in a way there were no rules and Dreyer had that wonderful freedom that you find with any kind of new genre to kind of go wherever it wanted to go. And this in particular stands out amongst so many of the others as being influential, kind of has relevance beyond it’s own period and I think in that way, in fact I’ve heard people say that they think it is one of the greatest films ever made.

Adrian: I’ve heard that too, and we were saying that the influence it’s had on film Sergio Gianni, like you look at the close ups of Joan of Arc, that’s got to be really powerful. Like those huge close ups in Once Upon a Time in the West or A Fistful of Dollars or whatever. Or Clint Eastwood ye know all of his face on the screen and Dreyer who directed Joan of Arc had that vision all that time back that which is amazing. Which also makes it a spectacle in a really big space with the giant faces on the screen.
Will: And that’s all they have to express themselves with um, apart from the odd bit of subtitle. So it means that the film has to work in a very pure sort of way to tell the story literally with people’s facial expressions.

May Music

2010-05-01T13:24:00.000-07:00

First gig of the surprising early summer is The National at the Royal Albert Hall on Thursday, 6th May. Their new album, High Violet, has been streaming on the NY Times Online in order to create a bloodbuzz for their fans that will be lucky enough to catch them at the famous theatre in London. The five piece band originally from Cincinnati, Ohio but came together as a group in the heart of Brooklyn, NY, are on the bill of many a festival this summer but have scheduled in this one off gig for their British fans. If anyone wishes to go with me please don't hesitate to call me as I am not brave enough to go it alone.

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Swann, French singer Chloé Lenique, has been interning at Dazed and Confused for the past few months and has taken advantage of the London music scene playing a handful of intimate gigs. Her folk inspired love songs and delightful accent makes for an interesting live performances. With a great set in many iconic London venues such as the Lock Tavern (Camden) and The Good Ship (Kilburn) under her belt, and two more in the coming weeks, Chloé is sure to make a name for herself here before returning to Paris in the summer.

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Upcoming Gigs:
- 10th May : 93 Feet East (Brick Lane)
150 Brick Lane

- 21th May : The Constitution (Camden)
42 St. Pancras Way, Camden

The Brian Jonestown Massacre are renowned for on-stage brawls and bust ups, most famously the one that was caught on camera during filming of 2005's documentary DIG! which followed both BJM and the Dandy Warhols in a bid to become the better band. Anton Newcombe, lead singer, guitarist and song writer has come a long way since then but some say his new clean image taints the music BJM produced back in the 1990s. No doubt it will be showcase of new material, but here's hoping they throw a few classics into the mix in their set on 14th May at the 02 Shepherds Bush Empire.

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Fm Belfast hail from Reykjavick, Iceland, and were formed after a humorous birthday present of a mix-tape turned out to be the soundtrack to the party. They will be playing at Madame Mo-Jo's off Regent St on the 18th May and again at the Stag and Dagger festival on the 21st. Don't miss out on their catchy electro beats and wacky lyrics combo.

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I'm sure there a many more but assignments and deadlines will prevent me from going gig crazy until June.

www.myspace.com/fmbelfast
www.myspace.com/swannmusic

Erdem Moralioglu is a Nutcracker

2010-04-29T17:26:00.000-07:00

A short timid man enters UCA Epsom’s Gallery in rolled up chinos, buttoned up check shirt and Cutler & Gross thick-rimmed specs. Wide-eyed and undoubtedly a bit intimidated by the eager fashion students staring down at him, he doesn’t let this affect his Canadian tinted voice. Reminiscent of a young Yves Saint Laurent, he captivates the room from the beginning.

Erderm Moralioglu, founder and head designer of Erdem, has had a hectic five years. Since his graduate collection at the end of a two year MA at the Royal College of Art in 2001, he has been pounced on by fashion buyers and editors alike, most recently Anna Wintour, who chose him for the Vogue Fashion Fund this year- something which he marks as a highlight of his budding career.

to a British mother and Turkish father, Erdem and his twin sister grew up in Canada with a very broad cultural background. He recalls his mother reading tales of the Nutcracker before bed and taking them to galleries and museums from a young age. His parents emigrated when they were in their early thirties and that affected the way he and his sister were brought up. He admits that they influence his work greatly, and “there was a great juxtaposition of cultures when I was growing up. We’d travel to Turkey one minute and be looking at the Towers of London the next”. He fondly remembers doodling women figures in the margins of copy books as a child, a silhouette that has rarely changed and remains the Erdem woman he designs for today.

(A/W10)

Luckily his parents were very open about their children’s interests and let them study whatever they wanted. After graduating from Ryerson University in Toronto, Moralioglu attended RCA in London which provided an integral chapter in his fashion career. He occasionally lectures at the University as well as uses the vast library books on offer. “Sometimes I go and sit in the same seat I did when I was a student and burrow into a stack of design books”, and to the fashion followers surprise, no one seems to bother him. Not that he knows of anyway as he has “bad peripheral vision”. He speaks warmly of the college that propelled him into the limelight as he got to see some great people lecture there, people who still inspire him today such as the artist Wolfgang Tillmans (who is featured on the cover of this season's Fantastic Man).

(A/W10)
Much like many fashion students today, Erdem completed a handful of internships in order to gain invaluable experience and insight into the fashion world. He was scouted for Diane Von Furstenburg and moved to New York to work in-house. He then went onto work at Vivienne Westwood where he was nestled away in the houses’ archive- something which excited him as he got to touch and study iconic Westwood garments- as well as make cups of coffee, a trait which all interns much possess.

(S/S10)

Working at these great fashion houses, he always knew in the back of his mind that he wanted to start his own label, which was conceived in 2005. His intimate studio in Bethnal Green just keeps on growing, from two members of staff at the beginning (himself included) to the six right-hand-men/women he has on his team now. He would like to expand the studio if he can in the future, and he feels the diversity and mishmash of cultures in London really influence his designs unconsciously. The design process he describes is that of a complicated one. Known for his wonderful floral prints, he is a firm believer in digital print and the technology that is available to elevate his doodles in margins to iconic prints. Photoshop and other design programs help manipulate his prints, even if he does use it “badly”, and some end up coming together by accident and turn out to be strong focal points in his collections. He likes when he can trick the eye, making it look “as if it has been done by hand even if it is computer generated”.

Erdem received a lot of interest after his first collection in Spring 2005- Julie Gilhart of Barney’s in New York being one of them. Since then, demand for his garments have grown tenfold and he is now stocked in 24 different countries with 54 stores, and his most recent and exciting store added to the list is Colette in Paris. “I wanted to do something really special for the Colette window and I tried to think of something really French. So we had little Daxon dogs in floral prints. I since found out that the Daxon is actually a German dog, but the German stores were happy about the display anyway!”

that is obviously when looking back on Erdem’s previous collections is that he always explores the same things and ideas, but slightly tweaking them in order to make them fresh and new. He believes he has progressed since university, but that he still has the same aesthetic he began designing with. By mixing colours awkwardly together to create odd yet beautiful designs in structural shapes, Erdem has created stunning pieces that have been the talk of many fashion weeks. One of his favourite pieces was a cashmere embroidered poncho from A/W10 that was sold to a boutique in Paris, “so keep an eye out for a Parisian woman wearing a cashmere poncho, you’ll know that it’s my design!” His runway shows match the outfits excellently, and his most recent showing at Somerset house was a definite highpoint in his fashion week experience where he had the sounds of Edith Piat billowing from the end of the runway by a live piano, accompanying the Russian/French theme of his collection.

So what’s next for Erdem? Diffusion lines and side tracking into menswear isn’t on his radar just yet, nor is a high street collaboration. He has worked with shoe designer Nicholas Kirkwood on his recent collections, and has teamed up with Smythson the stationary company, to create exquisite diaries with signature Erdem print. But perhaps a stint at costume designing could be on the horizon. “I would love to do the costumes for the Royal Ballet”- the Nutcracker would certainly be a great place to start. He ends with a tip for promising designers- to do a long internship at a fashion house in order to see the magic that happens during fashion week, both the lead up and the post-show mayhem. No doubt there will be hundreds of letters and C.V’s fluttering towards Shoreditch this summer.

(Interview took place on Wednesday 28th Arpil 2010 at UCA Epsom)

Alternate Fashion Week 2010

2010-04-28T16:14:00.001-07:00

Last week, Spitalfields was home to the new crop of designers making a name for themselves, both home grown and foreign, creating a buzz around the usually mellow atmosphere of the marketplace. The designers were hand picked by the Alternate Arts council having received a lo of aspiring fashion designers portfolios. On each of the days between 19-23 April, fourteen different designers were showcased.

On Friday, the last day of the fashion week, an eclectic mix of designers set their models down the runway in a mishmash of pieces. There was fairytale inspired collections with Little Red Riding Hood skipping down the runway in a red velvet hooded cape, and a fierce fox trailing behind her in a crisp black tailcoat.

Other designers had sportswear on their mood-boards with a new take on street wear. Stuffed vintage tracksuit tops and fitted dress with cowl necks streamed down the runway on the women while the men revealed chizzled bodies in cut away zip up tops and ruched jumpers. Victorian inspired garments were also on show along with tribal head gear and floaty chiffon numbers.

Here are some of the best pieces that were on show.

Peter Pan Collar at its finest

2010-04-20T11:03:00.000-07:00

Urban Outfitters Pin & Needles Frock
£58

Fashion Prevails at Coachella

2010-04-20T09:10:00.000-07:00

The Coachella Valley Music and Arts Festival kicked off the summer this week and it has been at the forefront of my wish list for a number of years now. The line-up is always outstanding, with acts old and new, eclectic and common sharing the multitude of stages and tents that are scattered across the Californian dessert. Acts on the bill this year made every music lovers knees quiver and the fashion lovers eyes widen at the thought of both seeing groudbreaking performances by bands such as LCD Soundsystem, Vampire Weekend, Grizzly Bear, Fever Ray, Pavement, Julian Casablancas (the list is endless) and mingling with the star studded crowd dazzling in outrageous festival gear.

Coachella is blessed with the almost certainty of good weather, an advantage they have over some of their European contemporaries. It is an art form to be able to infuse style into the festival period as practicality must be taken into account. At Woodstock they took advantage of the muddy fields and turned what was initially a disaster for the festival into body art. This hippie aesthetic was motivated by the freedom music possessed, thus creating a freedom of fashion allowing people to wear what they wished in order to express themselves. There were no labels, just style, and that mantra is still witnessed today. Hippie chic infected fashion so much that it still permeates the catwalks today, and come festival season people imitate their favourite style icons; from Joplin to Hendrix, Karen O to Pete Doherty and everyone in between.

The trick is to partake in the festival spirit by being comfortable and not too fashion conscious, but still keep an element of your regular style as not to feel completely out of your own skin come day two. By mixing 501’s and blouses, the Woodstock crowd effortlessly, and unconsciously, paved way for the festival uniform of today. Denim shorts are a must, as seen on this music lover. Janis Joplin was lucky to have had Vivienne Westwood design for her when she mounted the stage at Woodstock, and many artists such as Karen O of the Yeah Yeah Yeahs, who has her good friend Christian Joy design her outrageous and colourful get-ups, and Blondie don designer gear on stage.

At this years festival there was an array of new fashion icons amongst the musicans performing. Personal favourite of mine who has been featured on this blog before was Victoria Legrand of dreamy pop duo Beach House. On trend with black leather shorts, Victoria's locks cascaded over a peach top and flashed her brown satchel to the street style hunters. Zooey Deschanel, the 'she' in country inspired two piece She& Him donned a baby blue number on stage which made her icey blue eyes pop and no doubt had the crowd at her disposal. Her lovely and innocent personality would never take advantage of this however. Florence Welsh of Florence and the Machine is making a name for herself in the fashion stakes, and this flowing cream ensemble with gold shorts from her performance set off her fiery red mane beautifully. Other celebrities who were attending the festival included model Agyness Deyn sporting a shaved head, Lindsay Lohan, Alexa Chung, Whitney Port and Kate Bosworth (who looked effortlessly cool in a blue tie dye jersey dress that will be on everyone shopping list this summer).

And it wasn't just the women who were at the forefront of the fashion parade at Coachella this year. Julian Casablancas performed in his usual leather ensemble, but this time embellishments covered his battered leather jacket and he teamed it with a white and navy stripped t-shirt. James Murphy of LCD Soundsystem banged out their new album This is Happening in a white two-piece suit with white t-shirt; a look that suited the overwhelming heat of the festival.

One thing that has consistently been at the forefront of festival fashion is accessories. Anything goes at festivals and be either as subtle or as outrageous as you like. Headbands and hats were on show at Coachella, an orange floppy one blocking the sun excellently on one festival goer. They hide greasy hair, necklaces and scarves conceal the curry-stained dress, gloves cover un-manicured nails, and coloured leggings or tights can distract anyone from your hangover state. The key is to derive inspiration from past icons, and indeed the icons of today such as Chloe Sevigny who always looks effortlessly cool at festivals, and last year at Coachella teamed socks with sandals and make it look cool for the first time ever.

The volcanic ash that is continuing to wreak havoc on European airspace prevented acts such the Cribs, Bad Lieutenant, Delphic, Talvin Singh, Gary Numan and Frightened Rabbit and the Chicago brass group Hypnotic Brass Ensembl from performing. This didn't dampen the festival goers spirits, however it has prevented some of the acts from continuing on their European tours leaving fans across the Atlantic disappointed.

Coachella has set the a high standard for festival fashion, and it will be interesting to see if the rest of the summer festie's can match up to the trendsetter. The next big festival scheduled is Primaverasound in Barcelona and with similar heat conditions to California, is sure to produce some fashion favourites and new looks to guide the rest of us through the summer. Here's a few that can get your thinking caps on...

Marling and Me

2010-04-11T06:31:00.000-07:00

On stage last night at The Academy, Dublin, stood a twenty year old timid woman with hair scraped back into a neat bun, guarded by her guitar.

Laura Marling is known for her shyness and at times awkward persona during performances and last night wasn't too different, but perhaps a little less cringey. Opening with her raging ballad and new single 'Devil's Spoke', the crowd soon gave her the confidence to take part in a bit of on stage banter. She continued on with the vulnerable 'Rambling Man', another new track off her latest album, I Speak Because I Can. With an onslaught of guitars tuned to perfection being handed to her after every song she and her band gelled together beautifully as they provided percussion, piano, and cello accompaniments to her setlist.

The band then disappeared and left a lonesome Laura to tackle the rest of the folk-inspired set with favourites such as 'My Manic and I', 'Ghosts' and the mellow 'Goodbye England'. Before attempting to cover Neil Young's classic 'Needle and the Damage Done', she recounted her first few gigs where she played the song as homage to her father her taught her. She added that her mother used to tell people that she wrote the song herself, and as an 18 year singing about heroin, which saw a twinkle in her eye (her parents were actually present at the gig). She executed it perfectly, adding her own twists and natural flare to the song which showed range to her somewhat typecasted voice as the 'female Bob Dylan'.

The gig built up emphatically much like her songs themselves, and then trailed off slowly with 'Alas I Cannot Swim' echoing around the sold out venue filled with adoring fans. She has certainly proved herself as a live performer however much she finds the whole act nerve wracking.

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Coke Becomes a Fashion Accessory

2010-04-09T08:08:00.000-07:00

Karl Lagerfeld famously credited Diet Coke for his outstanding weightloss back in 2001 along with the diet of steemed vegetables and horse meat. In somewhat of a homage to Coca-Cola, Karl has teamed up with the giant conglomorate to create limited edition drink, Coca-Cola Light, and with it, glass bottles with his recognisable silhouette printed onto it. His black suit, point white collar and slicked back maine stand against the silver bottle with the classic font of Coca Cola Light scrawled accross it. His signature is also etched onto the bottle which will be sold at Colette and Galeries Lafayette in Paris for a hefty sum no doubt. The bottle will come encased in a box with a matching bottle opener. Karl has also shot adverts for the bottle, featuring Coco Rocha and Baptiste Giacobini. Lagerfled follows in the footsteps of other limited edition Coca Cola bottles such as the caricature printed images of Sex and the City stars for the film's promotion in 2008. Drinking Coke never seemed so chic!

TWINKRANES and their Spektrum Snakes

2010-04-06T12:13:00.000-07:00

TwinKranes have been burgeoning on the Dublin music scene for a number of years and with the release of their debut album, SpektrumTheatreSnakes on the Mancunian label Twisted Nerve, they have finally been praised for their hard work and their popularity just keeps on growing.

Sitting in a friends’ house in London listening to a few records before dinner, a sound echoed around the room that brought back memories of a long lost favourite band of mine. Who knew that a lad from Manchester would rekindle my love for the psycheldelic trio, TwinKranes. Suddenly, their name was everywhere; on various music websites and blogs, being hailed by NME as an ‘unhinged mix of speeded-up krautrock rhythms, dirty drones and wonky synthesisers, which is at once weird and danceable and very pop’, a description which singer and drummer Anto (or Blonde Fox as he is sometimes referred to) confirms. “Yeah I think they hit the nail on the head with that one. I especially liked the Britney Spears reference”. To see ones band being praised in such high profile magazines must’ve been some experience. “It was great to see the band featured in respected publications like NME and Mojo, magazines you’ve grown up with and thankfully they had only good things to say. It’s great for the profile of the band and it can really make people sit up and take notice”. And people have certainly started to take notice.

They seem to have found their niche with the krautrock inspired album, a mishmash of influences and progressive pop sounds that set them apart from the indie-riddled charts. Anto explains that it was a long process over the years of playing live and recording that pointed them in this direction. “We’ve learnt what works and what doesn’t. It’s about skimming off the bad stuff and exploring the avenues that appeal to us as a group”. It seems there was a gap in the market for a band such as TwinKranes, and it was this spaced out sound that led Andy Votel of Twisted Nerve to Kennedy’s of Westland Row and suddenly the witchhunt for a record deal was over. The Manchester music scene always appealed to Anto as he grew up listening to bands such as Happy Mondays and to be apart of the Factory Records influenced city of lights has just given the band more drive to succeed.

Not that they haven’t already had success however. The band has supported numerous amounts of well established bands, most notably music veteran Silver Apples. Anto said that the support slot was great and that “it was an honour to grace the stage with him. He’s a true innovator and it’s amazing how he is still travelling the world playing his music and giving spring chickens across the globe a run for their money”. TK have also had their fair share of headline gigs in all the usual haunts in Dublin as well as a couple of festival slots at LLAMA in Devon, Primavera Sound in Barcelona and Electric Picnic in 2008; the latter being Anto’s favourite since TwinKranes’ conception. “It was amazing to feature with so many amazing bands and the partying was great fun. Hopefully we’ll get on the bill again this year”. With the likes of Fever Ray, Caribou, The National, LCD Soundsystem and Massive Attack playing at the festival, they would certainly stand their ground amongst these confirmed acts.

The band blossomed from a shared love of the same music and the three friends wanted to see where this would take them and while they were at it, “throw a bit of colour into the proceedings”, as Anto aptly puts it. The obscure name arose from the growing Dublin skyline and wherever they each seemed to move, two cranes would appear at the next abode. And to match their unusual band name, monikers of the same degree were born- although they insist that these are for comical reasons and only the guitarist Rooster, whose surname is Rooney, is actually used. Auburn Spinner was derived from Ray’s luscious locks (which he has now since cut off) and his DJ background. He mans the synthesisers and soundscapes that cry out on songs such as ‘High Tek Train Wreck’, ‘The Charmer’ and old favourite ‘Being Kong’. Anto himself provides the hypnotising beats on drums and harrowing vocals, something which requires a lot of skill and concentration as well as stamina. “The funny thing is that you tend to make less drumming mistakes as you don’t have time to think about what you’re playing. There isn’t much room for posing either.”

So what’s next for TwinKranes? The band are studio bound at present to hopefully get an EP release this summer to follow up the widely acclaimed album. This new material will be debuted at a couple of summer gigs which will surely be met by more media and fan interest. On the trailer and soundtrack to psychedelic teen movie Cherrybomb starring Rupert Grint and Robert Sheehan, and a possible a slot at EP at the end of the summer, TwinKranes are set for musical glory and definitely not to be missed live.

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I'm No longer Dazed & Confused

2010-03-22T10:34:00.000-07:00

A two week internship at fashion and music magazine Dazed & Confused confirmed my aspirations of being a journalist. Daily tasks included transcribing interviews (listening to Spike Jonze for almost 6 hours did not taint my opinion of him, but it did not make me want to see his new movie I'm Here which is a tale of two robots in love in LA) researching for features and joining the other interns tp sort out the daily post (which turned out to be a more confusing task that I had first imagined but I became quite the post woman by the end of it). I did however get to do two phone interviews and one via email which both scared me to death and gave me the confidence to do interviews in the furture.

The May issue will contain two of the interviews. The first with Jaiden Saint James discussing his magazine, Re-bel, and the second with Will Gregory from Goldfrapp and Adrian Utley of Portishead. The latter is about a really exciting project the two friends are currently collaborating on. They are in the midst of writing a completely new and contemporary film score to the 1920's French silent film The Passion of Joan of Arc. .

The interview with photgrapher Ewen Spencer was featured on Dazed Digital today and recounts the short film he made as part of the Massive Attack project featuring their new album, Heligoland.

I also got to attend the April issue lanuch party in CAMP in Shoreditch where i got to see the band Glasser live and the cover stars (above), The xx, dj-ed afterwards. The whole experience at the magazine, watching everything unfold and listen to new relseases from the desk next to me. Tim, Deputy Editor is also the Music Editor and provided the soundtrack to my internship. From Foals and LCD Soundsystem's new albums to the Vengaboys and afternoon mambo, there was never a dull moment in the office. Keep an eye out in the next issue of Dazed & Confused for my little aformentioned pieces, every little helps as they say!

Read the interview here:

http://www.dazeddigital.com/ArtsAndCulture/article/7125/1/Massive_Attack_Films_-_Part_2

No Distance Left to Run

2010-03-20T16:59:00.001-07:00

Oasis or Blur? The only question in the 90s that really mattered and it divided families, housing estates and classrooms throughout the decade. Oasis were either on or off, and then they had a bust up, and got back together. Are they together now? Who knows.

But Blur famously split after extreme personal differences. What once started up as a band of brothers, well best friends, turned out to be an alcohol fuelled frenzy of tours and festivals that eventually led to their demise. Damon Albarn and Graham Coxon were no longer on speaking terms and eventually, Blur were no more. They all went their seperate ways... Damon started numerous bands such as the Gorillaz (who have just released Plastic Beach, their sophomore album) and The Good The Bad and The Queen; Alex James started a family, a cheese farm (and created possibly the best named cheese of all time, Blue Monday) and wrote autobiography A Bit of A Blur (which is now on sale in HMV for a mere £3); Drummer Dave Rowntree went to law school and Graham Coxon focussed on family life.

No Distance Left to Run documents the bands revival in 2009 and follows them on their 'comeback' tour, mainly focussing on their spine tingling Glastonbury performance. It films interviews with other journalists, band practice and individual interviews with the band members, all of which reveal different facets to the Brit Pop innovators. Damon is filmed tearing up on stage at Glasto after the 80,000 crowd sing in unison the emotive lyrics of 'Tender', the lyric that Coxon dreamt up whilst in bed and had to scrawl it down immediately.

The reconciliation occured on a porch of a housing estate between Albran and Coxon and they two put their past behind them and said 'Let's get the band back together one last time'. The live performances over the summer, that consisted of a flavourful setlist of 'Parklife', 'Girls and Boys' and the monsterous 'Song 2', took Blur to new and dizzying heights. Let's hope they came away with the success of this documentary and perhaps start dreaming up some more classics for us to sing back to them.

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Possibly one of the most moving live performances of our time. Or maybe I'm just bias!

Watch the documentary in full on BBC iplayer.
http://www.bbc.co.uk/iplayer/episode/b00rkm75/Blur_No_Distance_Left_to_Run/

To Clog or not to Clog

2010-03-20T16:46:00.000-07:00

Clog- such a funny word for a funny-looking shoe. Associated with many Eurpoean cultures but most notably the Dutch, clogs have managed to creep their way into the trends this spring, much like the brogue has done before. Shoes are the one thing in fashion that tend to go full circle, dating back a number of years and all of a sudden explode onto the catwalks and filter down to the streets in a matter of months.

Once predominantly made out of wood, the clog has been tweaked since the 19th Century and has been reinvented by designers such as Chanel and Miu Miu. Soon you will no longer need to learn how to clog-dance before stepping out in a pair of these wooden wonders. Karl Lagerfeld came under a lot of criticism when he styled his models for Spring/Summer 2010 in custom made clogs with the Chanel logo encrusted onto the familiar bronze studs that attach the linen to the wooden sole. But anything Vogue praises tends to become an instant hit, and when Alexa Chung sat cross legged on the cover last month donning a pair of these Chanel clogs, it has been all that fashionista’s can talk about. She admitted herself that they are quite difficult to walk in, especially with tights, but since when has fashion been practical?

With an array of fabrics to choose from, such as linen, leather or suede, clogs are set to be this seasons ‘it’ shoe. Try a pair of Miu Miu’s sheepskin lined ankle boot clogs, or stick to the traditional silhouette but with a patchwork twist, the chunkier the heel the better.

And it doesn’t have to have a designer stamp, high street stores such as Topshop and River Island have imported their clogs straight from the Netherlands (well, from their factories, but who knows, they could have one in Amsterdam) Not to be mistaken with the extremely comfortable crocs, these new takes on the traditional comfortable clog are far from clumpy and frumpy as they have once been described. So, you have to ask yourself, are you a cloggy?

It's not just Alexa who has taken a liking to the clog...

Green is Serene- Lá le Phadraig Shona Dhiabh

2010-03-17T08:27:00.001-07:00

St. Patricks Day wouldn't be complete without a dash of green in your outfit for the day. Whether it's merely a green scarf or belt, or perhaps you tend to overdose on the colour head to toe, show your Irish pride and embrace the Irish culture in one of these pieces. How about wearing one of these cute t-shirts from Urban Outfitters for a casual day look to look the part at the parade, or this green satin goddess dress to add a bit of glamour to the evening. I will be opting for this mint green cardigan for a subtle nod to my homeland, and of course there will be face painting involved.

Both t-shirts UO £28

Jasmine Guinness Dress £58

Silence & Noise Jumper £35 (the forest green colour sets off the model's fiery red hair beautifully)

My pick for the day: Topshop Cardigan £38

This will undoubtedly be played throughout the day in various pubs and clubs and will make everyone Jump Around after a few pints of the black stuff
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But this is what will be sung today all around Ireland in the trad ceol sessions.

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www.urbanoutfitters.co.uk
www.topshop.co.uk
www.very.co.uk

One Colour on Everyone's Hips

2010-03-15T18:00:00.000-07:00

There was one colour that was visible on every catwalk and on everyone in the front row that is set to filter down to the masses very soon. Camel is the new name for beige apparently and will be a major look for AW10. The most common item in this colour was the coat. Even though Spring is among us, the coat was out in full swing over the AW10 fashion weeks due to tempestuous weather conditions in London and Paris. It seems fashionista’s were taking inspiration from the catwalks straight away instead of waiting until September by the looks of these street style snaps by Scott Schuman, aka the Sartorialist.

A palette of browns and oranges were the backdrop for the Chloé collection this season with an older woman feel to the collection. High waisted trousers with silk pussy bow blouses were evident, with a mix woollen and tweed coats in similar shades being exhibited. Beige, beige, and more beige as Sarah Mower put it, it seems the colour has become a signature element of the season.

Street style saw people in herds donning the range of beige shades from alpaca to caramel. Giles by Giles Deacon was awash with the same tones mixed with 60s inspired hair and make up. The colour came in shift dresses, leather skirts and scarves. Marc Jacobs also hinted at the trend with the odd piece flickering in and out of his collection.

Easy to wear with every, try to avoid looking too washed out with a beige and camel overload. Do mix tones with accessories or liven the outfit up with some red lips or towering sandals with chunky knit socks. Fashion blogger Susie Lau is a fan of the new popular shade, and was photographed at Paris Fashion Week wrapped up in a vintage camel toned coat but kept it fresh with a powder pink chiffon scarf.

You can also view this post on: http://www.wow.ie/one-colour-on-everyone%E2%80%99s-hips/

On a Good Day

2010-03-15T16:30:00.000-07:00

Robin Pecknold has conquered a few covers in his short time as Fleet Foxes are somewhat modern folk's answer to the voices of Crosby, Stills, Nash and Young. Their perfect pitch harmonies echo around venues and he sang 'Katie Cruel', originally by Karen Dalton, without a mic, a cappella, on the edge of the stage on the majority of their tour last year. Pitchfork released the news last week that Pecknold will be breaking away from Fleet Foxes and will go on tour later this month with country singer Joanna Newsom. Robin's voice is a mix of powerful notes and sweet tones and on this record he unleashes a new side to the song itself. Timid on stage, it is such a beautiful surprise when he belts out 'Ragged Wood' and then resides on tracks such as 'Tiger Mountain Pleasant Song' and 'Oliver James', all of which are on their debut album, Fleet Foxes.

'On a Good Day'

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This is a video from the French bloggers La Blogotheque, who have also taken to bands such as Bon Iver when they are visiting Paris. This video shows the range of Pecknold's voice as well as the musical talent of the other memebers of the group, improvising with random instruments and using the Grand Palais acoustics to elevate their harmonies.

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http://pitchfork.com/news/38111-watch-fleet-foxes-frontman-robin-pecknold-cover-joanna-newsom/

He also wears the best checked shirts, flannel mostly, in an array of different colours. The band don't seem too focused on their image which is a breath of fresh air these days, and I managed to get my hands on a similar shirt to Robin's two years ago in Rokit, Covent Garden for a mere £10. It's still one of my favourite vintage pieces to this day.

The Fashionable Polymath

2010-03-09T10:49:00.000-08:00

THE FASHION INDUSTRY IS BURSTING WITH INDIVIDUALS THAT CAN’T GET ENOUGH FROM ONE CAREER. HELEN KENNEDY INVESTIGATES THE CULPRITS AND THEIR MOTIVES

A polymath is described as ‘a person of great and varied learning’ and in modern society, Noam Chomsky is classified as such a person. But what about the many different fields, other than philosophy and history, that see people of great and varied learning channelling their creativity into a wide range of arenas? The recent premiere of ‘A Single Man’, the directorial debut of fashion’s most fashionable man, Tom Ford, has highlighted the fashionable polymaths’ capabilities and confirms that it takes more than advertising a high street brand to get you credibility. He decided to postpone his designing until the film was finished as he did not wish to neglect one or the other. People would be surprised to know the amount of work Ford actually put into the making of this film, and he infused his experienced fashion knowledge right down to the Windsor knot that neatly laced the neck of Colin Firth.

The lines between designer, model, stylist, director and photographer have always been somewhat blurred, with many people having to market themselves with a handful of these traits just to book a job. With many actors and singers crossing the threshold into the fashion industry, seeing as the entertainment business is a perfect walking advertising opportunity for designers, the fashion industry has become a creative melting pot.

Cecil Beaton noted photographer, costume designer and fashion designer on his wealthy résumé, Malcolm McLaren and Vivienne Westwood started out as boutique owners in the late 1970s which led to designing. and for McLaren, a steady managerial music career with the Sex Pistols. The list is endless but in recent times, faces have stepped out from behind the styling cupboard and camera and delve into the unknown and throw themselves into new projects that will test their creative talents.

Melanie Ward stemmed her fashion career from the stressful world of styling. Working her way up the ranks, she soon became the ‘must have’ stylist for designers, noting Helmut Lang and Calvin Klein as distinct believers in her aesthetic. There was however a hazy line that created problems whilst styling for many different designers, a problem which Ward picked up on. ''For me, a stylist is a major part of the support system for a designer. But a sign of professionalism is to know when to stop. It's a question of integrity. You respect them and their style.''. Her most famous stint at a design house was at Helmut Lang where for 13 years she acted as a creative director. She then spent time in the Chanel Rue Cambon address in Paris under the sunglass-shaded eye of Karl Lagerfeld as a consultant and Ward has taken that collaboration’s insights with her. Ward’s mantra confirms the fashionable polymath’s meaning- “There’s no reason why you can’t be an editor, a consultant and a designer. You can wear many hats, you just have to have integrity.” And integrity is written all over her new venture.

Ward has recently branched out into designing for her own label, Blousons Noir, with Graham Tabor. Their tea towel inspired collection for SS10 landed in all the major department stores around the world including Browns of London and Barneys, New York. With the fashionable polymath generation taking hold, it is their versatile ability that sees them triumph in other fields. Her styling background has been an invaluable tool in the transition into designer. “Often, a designer will draw something without vaguely thinking about how it will look on the body,” she says. “During my years working with Helmut, he would start with an art reference, but for me, I think about the body”.

Not unlike Ward, Paula Thomas has diverted from her model roots to become a fashion designer in the star studded city of Los Angeles where she now tames her rock n’ roll lifestyle. Once apart of the 90s model scene in London and acting as muse and creative partner to knitwear extraordinaire Julien MacDonald, Thomas’ thirst for designing was quenched by her fashion houses’ conception. Thomas Wylde embodies Paula’s rock n’roll lifestyle with the punk chic that L.A has opened up to her. Her days of magazine covers have been converted to long nights behind the drawing board, constantly reinventing her signature prints and accessories that will keep the celebrity clientele happy. Sienna Miller and Lindsay Lohan are noted fans amongst an army of Starbucks clenching Californian’s that scuttle down Sunset Boulevard. Now known as Paula Thomas for TW to omit confusion that the face behind the label is a man, Paula uses her immense knowledge of the fashion industry to create a successful ready-to-wear line. While we may not compare her to the great Noam Chomsky just yet, she is undoubtedly a candidate for a successful transition into designing amongst her contemporaries.

"Sam Taylor-Wood went down the same route as Mr. Ford, but had had some directorial experience previously with her groundbreaking art installations and the 2005 film of David Beckham sleeping. What has been described as the ‘slash career’ by one journalist, the crossover between art and film has been accomplished in recent times by a new wave of artists, such as Steve Mc Queen, Spike Jonze and Michel Gondry who have all made the transition into film, and done so successfully. The film in question is Nowhere Boy, a tremendous depiction of a young John Lennon without the usual Beatles-riddled story line. Her involvement in the fashion industry distinguishes her from the others yet the creative aesthetic is still present. In the opposite direction, acclaimed French director Sofia Coppola created a line of handbags and matching sandals with long time friend Marc Jacobs for Louis Vuitton. "My idea of Louis Vuitton was of a company with a great heritage and great quality, and working with them solidified this.

Could the polymath be taking advantage of their creativity for lucrative purposes or are their motives genuinely creative based? Iain R. Webb confessed that in order to make it in the fashion industry one must be a jack of all trades, and do it for free. When he first entered the realm of magazines he had to be editor, contributor, creative director and sub-editor (his most notable affiliations were with Elle and The Face). Herein lies the ideology behind the fashionable polymath- it is not enough to be a person of great a varied learning, one must be successful at it too. Being fashionable is just an added bonus.

Lily in Disguise

2010-03-06T13:14:00.000-08:00

On the back of her recent Brit award for Best Female Artist, which she accepted whilst wearing an orange afro wig, Lily Allen has revealed that she is quitting music for the foreseeable future (two years is quite seeable but we’ll let her away with that one) in order to pursue the different pathways life has to offer.

As face of the Spring/Summer ‘10 Chanel campaign, Lily joined a long list of singers and actresses who have gone before her in the hop from one business to the other, such as Emma Watson for Burberry, Chloe Sevingy for Chloe and indeed her own collection for Opening Ceremony. But what better way to hone your love for shopping by turning that talent into a business venture. Lily will channel the creative juices that were once used for gold-chained melodies to a more down to earth job, such as running a shop.

The boutique Lucy in Disguise which will be co-run with her sister, will offer customers items which they can hire rather than splurge on. She insists her ideals are politically flavoured, stating that “It’s about making fashion democratic”. Surely it’s not just a way to keep the money flowing whilst her music career is on hiatus and a way of finding use for her abundance of designer gear that has be thrown at her in recent years. “It’s about getting really nice clothes but letting people rent them for affordable prices so they can go out and feel like a million dollars and it won’t cost them a million dollars.” Let’s hope it won’t end up looking like the costume shop where that dreadful luminous wig was found.

http://www.wow.ie/lily-in-disguise/

Portobello Road

2010-02-27T14:39:00.000-08:00

One of my favourite places in London to frequent, Portobello Road still excites me to this day. I seem to find something new and inspiring everytime I go- George Orwell must've felt the same! Most recently, I was distracted by a window display as I crossed the road. At first glance I thought it was another antique shop advertising old vintage Singer sewing machines. I then realised it was actually an All Saints store which had 100s of sewing machines semetrically placed all around its window display and indeed the brown brick interior.

The Hummingbird Café is another haunt of mine when I visit West London. Luscious couture cupcakes are their specialty and with such a hefty pricetag (from £1.75 upwards), it is definitely a once off experience- at least that's good news for your hips. I opted for a red velvet cupcake with creamy white icing topped off with a marzipan red rose. The sugar rush that ensued kept me going for the day.

A Child of the Jago

2010-02-25T14:15:00.000-08:00

“A Child of the Jago is a child of the street” is their motto. Design due Joseph Corre and Simon Armitage’s aesthetic is a mix between the dandy and rock n’ roll, with the strict tailoring influence of Saville Row thrown in for good measure.

The last show of this seasons London Fashion Week is surprisingly located in Shoreditch, in a warehouse behind A Child of the Jago’s quirky store. The graffiti scrawled lane is crowded with people trying to catch a glimpse of Vivienne Westwood as she scurries into the venue to see her son’s showcase. A one man act opened the show with his aggressive singing and homeless-man-like appeal, his lyric “I’m turning into Dad” still ever so haunting in retrospect. At first it was hard to concentrate on the show itself with Vivienne and Andreas in the front row accompanied by Janet Jackson (the new Pamela Anderson perhaps?) but the extravagant outfits soon caught my eye.

Exquisite tailoring permeated the collection, with tweed and woollen suits in a variety of colours on show. There were clearly many inspirations for this collection, with the music swiftly changing as quickly as the models. From punk and rock sounds to sailor-esque outfits with Parisian notes there was never a dull moment. Delicate silk scarves softened the looks and floated down the runway- Viv herself became involved in the show when she picked up a scarf that has slid off one of the models and she then gave it back to the next model who was quite startled. The oldest yet most dapper model I have seen sauntered down the catwalk like a ringmaster with striped trousers and top hat, his silver locks peaking out underneath. The ultimate punk look with fishnets, leather cap and fur had the audience smirking and tartan kilts made an appearance- a nod to his mother no doubt. The only female model in the show acted as an escort to the male models, donning garters and corsets aling with a cheeky grin.

The collection told a complicated story of two men who don't let the tyranny of trends infiltrate their creativity, and this show documented their aesthetic excellenty.

Front Row Snaps

London Fashion Week- J Maskrey, Victoria House

2010-02-21T09:41:00.000-08:00

My first Fashion Week show was certainly one to remember. It was scheduled for 19.15 but, as I now know, shows never start on time and it was after eight before we were shown to our seats (by shown to our seats I mean the crowd stampeded towards to catwalk and plonked themselves on the white benches).

The exciting atmosphere was accentuated by the dimming of the lights and the primitive beats that echoed around Vitoria House. Stormy rainfall sounds were drowned out by the murmur of the crowd. J Maskrey, who trained as a make up artist initially, is known for her body jewellery and embellished clothes. This was her first catwalk show in five years at London fashion Week so expectations were high. Her collection, entitled Pleasure was inspired by a 1930s black and white film called The Mask of Fu Man Chu. It was described on the shows booklet as 'the return of the modern day heroine' and 'Futuristic biker chic. Girls dipped in crystals and diamonds, super luxe criminal with a sexy attitude'.

The lights rose like the morning sun and the first model appeared all in black with a head wrap embellished with Maskrey’s signature sparkle. Black and gold permeated this collection with every model dressed in black wool knit fabrics, some of which were embroidered with a pom pom effect. It was clear that Maskrey was inspired by the animal kingdom with leopard print body tattoos in place of a high neck blouses, and zebra stripes clawed onto the back of the two male models, one of which donned a cave man fur headpiece. Classic tattoo symbols such as crosses, love hearts and skulls were mixed with words and phrases- LOVE and HATE were emblazoned across one model’s knuckles.

A loud gong admits an oriental inspired look with an extravagant headpiece made of a black fan with gold roses and chains dripping from the centre. Reminiscent of Grace Kelly in Mata Hari, another donned a similar headpiece and gown dangling with chandelier crystals- a look costume designer Gilbert Adrian would’ve been proud of.

A range of fabrics and accessories didn’t distract attention away from the extraordinary body art. The sheer blouses, black fur and wool knits were perfect canvases for Maskrey’s intricate glistening designs. Studded and sparkling leggings, plastic circular handbags and leather armlets gave a grungy feel to the overall dark collection. The attention to detail, such as black gems trickling down from the fingertips, elevated this entire collection. The final look was almost bat like with a double fanned headpiece similar to the previous oriental inspired piece but much more delicate. This was juxtaposed against the panelled leopard print dress with the gaps in between bearing the models glowing skin. She exits the catwalk with a smirk- a mischievous end to a sexy criminal collection.

The after-show party was awash with fashion industry elite. Everyone sipped on ‘Bespoke Cocktails’ whilst discussing their day filled of catwalk shows and planned their busy few days ahead. J herself introduced the act of the night and there was a slightly disappointing gasp heard around the room when the Sugarbabes strutted onto the stage. They didn’t let this bother them and belted ‘About you Now’ (the only song I knew) oozing confidence and sex appeal. Jodie Harsh bopped beside me along with another drag queen dressed hair to toe in PVC, almost like a blow-up doll- only at London Fashion Week!

Rodarte Crush

2010-02-18T13:38:00.000-08:00

It's a wonder how Kate and Laura Mulleavy have made such an impact in the fashion industry in five short years. Haling from Pasadena, California, the two sisters had no official fashion training when they decided to start their own fashion label, using their drive and love of fashion as a sole basis. The built a strong relationship with fashion through film and music and were exposed to it through their mother as an artist and their grandmother as an opera singer.

The hightailed it to New York with ten pieces stuffed into a box and were lucky enough to get a few appointments with some fashion buyers. Women's Wear Daily became interested in their designs and somehow one of their pieces made it onto the front cover of the prestigous magazine. They then won runner up in the CFDA/Vogue Fashion Fund award in 2006 and collaborated with GAP; this propelled them into the limelight. They've gathered a celebrity fanbase with actors such as Natalie Portman (a close friend), Cate Blanchett, Tilda Swinton and Chloe Sevigny all keen admirers of the label.

Their innovative take on mixing fabrics, such as mohair and Swarovski crystals for their A/W 08 collection set them apart from the rest. Their new collection has lept up their high standards and is set to produce some trends od their own as they have insisted before that they tend to steer clear of trend forcasting.

The Mulleavy sisters built their A/W 10 collection on the idea of sleepwalking which carried a dream like quality around the room. They said that their collection had been influenced by a recent drive through Mexico and the boarder town of Ciudad Juárez disturbed them.

"The Mexican maquilladora workers, walking to the Juarez factories in the middle of the night in a sort of sleep state, had a profound impact on us."

The models walked in a haze floating down the catwalk in crisp whites and creams mixed with colourful print work.

"The idea of a dream state guided the development of the collection in that we imagined a half-sleeping girl, dressing herself in the dark of night and focused on building garments that are neither long or short, made of varying layers. The collection interlaces florals, plaids, embroidery, and prints. We played with transparency and opaqueness in this collection, using a palette with Mexican-American references but without the usual tropes."

Their take on the wool jumper added a fresh feel to the worn out designs that have come before them- wrapping the fabric from around the neck to under the arm. The Mexican ethnicity was visible in tasselled skirts and patchwork, and their lace leggings are sure to reverberate in collections to come. Nicholas Kirkwood’s heels set off the collection perfectly and the dark washed hair of the models slicked back added the Rodarte edge to a more feminine collection. The show ended with a white lace gown, resembling a distressed wedding dress- A perfect day for a Rodarte wedding.

I couldn't get anough of their latest collection. Even if I could get my hands on a pair of those gloves for next Autumn I'll be happy.

PS: These hair clips would go excellently with the gloves.

Beach House, Bush Hall. They were sleeping 'til I came along.

2010-02-18T12:45:00.000-08:00

The drum machine sounds and provides a steady beat for Victoria Legrand and Alex Scally to enter the small intimate stage. For such a unique and particular sound, Alex had been on the stage a few minutes beforehand to tune his guitar, but the element of excitement is still there when they step out on stage together as Beach House.

‘Walk in the Park’, which boasts a powerful chorus kicks off the sold-out gig and has the crowd swaying from side to side from the get-go. Victoria’s voice echoes around the tiny Bush Hall venue and sends tingles down my spine. She is captivating- wearing an oversized blazer and uncombed hair, her natural beauty shines through. What was once a shy and timid voice builds up into a note perfect ensemble of both their new songs and old favourites such as ‘Master of None’ and ‘Gila’- both make the crowd lust after her. The chandeliers that provided dim lighting before the band surfaced sparkle in the darkness and create an alluring atmosphere that is the perfect backdrop for their phantasmagoria outlook and dream pop collective sound.

The gig itself turns into a showcase for their latest album with ‘Zebra’, ‘Mile Stereo’ and ‘Used to Be’ all getting a chance to prove how much their sound has developed since their debut album. New single ‘Norway’ which was available on 7” on the night sped up the dream-like set and certainly awakened the dreary crowd. The lyric ‘We were sleeping ‘til you came along’ never seemed more apt.

An encore rendition of Teen Dream’s finale ‘Take Care’ is teamed with sparkling lights that illuminate the disco ball and shows how much they care themselves about their music and their fans. It was a far cry from the moody set of last summer when I saw them at one o’clock in the morning. Victoria lends her vocals to the folk inspired sounds of Grizzly Bear and Beach House will be supporting them on their own European tour- a definite must see.

The support of this gig however came for the highly recommended Lawrence Arabia who is tipped for success in 2010. Not one to make it on time to catch the support act, this was a pleasant surprise. The harmonies that gelled the Lawrence and his band in opening song ‘Apple Pie Bed’ were enough to grab my attention and give Fleet Foxes a run for their money. The humble singer/songwriter barely spoke to the crowd in his New Zealand accent, but when he did it validated the stunning songs he sang. My personal favourite on the night was ‘The Undesirables’ but the lyrics of ‘The Beautiful Young Crew’ got a chuckle from the crowd- ‘They hate each other, but they really love each other, because they wanna screw each other’- So true. His pop/folk rock/psychedelic sound will fit in perfectly at Green Man festival this summer, and he and the band embark on a warm up tour ‘Over the Green Hills’ this Spring with Cate LeBon and Marques Tolivier.

Here's a taster of the encore- definitely already a highlight of 2010 for me!
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Alexander Wang, A/W 2010

2010-02-16T16:19:00.000-08:00

Imagine wandering aimlessly through Time Square as a tourist, distracted by the bright lights of the advertising campaign and the Charmin jingle penetrating from the home of the 'Cleanest Toilets in the Country' and all of a sudden, Alexander Wang's A/W10 collection is being streamed onto the big screens. Watching fashion shows live are becoming an internet wonder as SHOWstudio have cleverly demonstrated for a few seasons. But to be able to witness such a thing in New York's bustling advertising emporium must have been such a sight to behold.

Straight from Pier54, the models stormed down the catwalk in Wang's latest collection, one that I am still drooling over. The Wall St banker aesthetic juxtaposed against the mantra of the gyspies is a statement to the tough economic times we are living in but also a rebellion against the banks restraints on creativity. Certainly no restraints were visible from any of the New York Fashion Week shows.

Wang had a strong vision for this collection:

"I wanted this season to have this buttoned up, strict pristine feeling in the suiting. It's well-tailored men's jacket but taking that idea and not make it boring, dated and conservative. It's the silhouette of kind of making the shoulders really tight and then longer in the sleeves so that it goes past the hands and taking off all the buttons off the jacket so that it almost becomes like a layering piece like a cardigan. Then taking the jacket from the top and using it as a skirt, the lapel and using it as a bra top."

The texture most visible was 'velour du jour', velvet pieces for every occasion that could be carried from day into night. Decontructed suits, capes reminicient of hippies and his classic chiffon mixed dresses made this collection an enviable one. For such a young and new designer, the others should be shaking in the Prada boots.

Alexander the Great

2010-02-11T12:21:00.001-08:00

I have only just been informed of the death of Alexander Mc Queen, who was found dead in his London home this morning. I am in shock at the news. He was a maverick in the fashion industry, constantly pushing boundaries and testing the limits of fashion. It comes as a complete shock to the industry and he will definitely be missed. With London Fashion week only a week away, and Paris around the corner, undoubtedly there will be homage payed to one of the greatest designers of our time. His legacy will forever live on and I will be marking the high points in his career over the next week.

May he Rest In Peace.

http://www.guardian.co.uk/uk/2010/feb/11/alexander-mcqueen-dies-fashion-designer

Don your Denim

2010-02-10T08:17:00.000-08:00

Denim is a staple piece in any wardrobe. From the perfect pair of jeans to a denim jacket or shirt, it is interchangeable and infinite. This season, channel your inner Debbie Harry and mix your denim with denim. The key piece in this look is the denim shirt. It is strong, simple and can be understated or sexy depending on the shape and indeed your mood. Indigo, stonewashed and even white denim is making a comeback and the most affordable way to stay on trend is with the trusty denim shirt.

On the cover on this months Vogue, Alexa Chung is slouched on a stool in a pair of ripped denim jeans with black Chanel clogs (another one to watch out for). Inside, she describes her love for all things denim and I couldn’t help but both agree with her and feel overwhelmingly jealous. While us mere mortals scour the high street for that perfect pair of jeans to emulate the comfort of our Levis 501 hand-me-downs, Alexa notes that she found her dream pair at Balenciaga. At that’s all it will be for us, a dream.

The denim shirt has exploded into every store this season (Topshop, Topman, New Look and Primark to name but a few), but it has been present in fashion since it was almost a uniform for hippies in the 70s at Woodstock and has also been filtering down from the catwalks over the past few seasons. SS10 catwalks saw troops of models clad head to toe in denim, but the shirt was the piece that shone through.

There is a range of different ways to wear this ultimate piece. A loose fitted man-sized shirt, such as these shirts from Topman (left), can be left open as a jacket or buttoned and belted, and it can look chic when tucked into the waist. Denim on denim was a favourite at Chloé with a loose fitting denim shirt that had the pockets ripped off to reveal deep indigo patches and dark fitted jeans with lighter denim shins. Take note from this look by wearing the denim on denim with contrasting washes; lighter on top and darker on the bottom for the body conscious fashionista’s among us. With such a denim overload it is important that accessories do not overpower the look and shoe choice is essential to avoid looking like you’ve just come from a rodeo. Pin this image of Britney and Justin to your wardrobe to remind you what happens when denim attacks.

Denim shirts are widely available from designer to high street but all seem very similar- it’s how you wear it that stands out. To revamp the classic 70s look, try adding lace into the mix. By attaching a strip of lace under the collar and across the shoulders, it immediately updates this classic look and adds a modern twist.

The denim shirt will last for seasons to come and is a great item to have in multiple shades and shapes as this will allow you to either look chilled out for a day look. With the right belt and shoes can transform into an evening silhouette-just remember to back away from the cowboy boots.

Teen Dreamer

2010-02-10T07:21:00.001-08:00

I first encountered Beach House whilst watching an interview with MGMT back in 2008. They mentioned the Baltimore duo as one of their favourites of the time and they were also good friends (who in that circle is never friends?). However, they were wrongly shunned aside when I saw that they were supporting a fellow dreary folk band now known as the ubiquitous Fleet Foxes. I reverted back to them last year and I am very glad I did so. Victoria Legrand and Alex Scally make up the indie compilation. Victoria's mellowed vocals match the drone of Alex's guitar and the echo of the organ create a unique sound that penetrates your deepest thoughts. Their self titled debut album was listed on Pitchfork's Best of 2006 list, and they were immediately catapulted into the indie arena. They have since released two albums, Devotion and their most recent, Teen Dream has gathered o much momentum over the past month that is enough to sell out most of the dates on their European tour.

But it is Victoria's style that I wish to impart onto the unassuming Beach House listener. Her cascading uncombed locks with blunt fringe shape her face as she softly sings classics such as 'Apple Orchard' and 'Gila', and a more powerful voice was recently unveiled on their new single 'Norway'.(She also contributed to Grizzly Bear's single 'Two Weeks') Her style is a mismatch of vintage retro pieces and casual items that mirror her on stage persona. She oozes natural style and captures the viewers attention whilst on stage, whether in a denim shirt or a polka dot number.

The often labelled 'dream pop' band slashed the misconception that they are indeed as mellow as their music. I was lucky enough to see them last summer at Electric Picnic in Co. Laois, Ireland in the Body and Soul area where treacherous weather conditions delayed them until 1 am and the feedback of the amps were less than desirable for the weary listener on the last night of a festival. They are playing my hometown of Dublin this Saturday 13th in Whelans which I am very jealous of, and next week in London in the Bush Hall. I booked my tickets well in advance to avoid disappointment (I tend to miss a lot of gigs due to laziness or lack of funds)

I will make sure I take note of both the bands performance and Legrand's ensemble for you all to lust after, just as i will be doing on the night.

http://www.myspace.com/beachhousemusic
http://www.myspace.com/grizzlybear
http://www.myspace.com/fleetfoxes

Couture Week in Paris

2010-02-07T13:29:00.000-08:00

Last week the haute couture shows took Paris by storm. The golden oldies were present; Chanel, Jean-Paul Gaultier, Christian Dior, Armani Privé, Valentino and Givenchy. Others that took part in this extraordinary example of fashion at it’s finest were Alexis Mabille, Elle Saab, Thimister and Anne Valérie Hash.

The shows were awash with creative ideas inspired by both ethnicities and pop culture. Jean Paul Gaultier kept his tailoring title this year with clean cuts and a cream day suit with lattice jacket everyone will be pining after. However the rest of the collection left a lot to be desired. Gauchos, sombreros and Spanish shawls were styled with feathers and basket weave detailing that had the audience thinking they were in Mexico. He was just short of handing out burritos at the close of the show with the matador dressed models taming bulls.

Chanel surprised everyone (I think Lagerfeld was quite surprised himself) with a futuristic collection that was a definite change for the fashion house. He admitted that “It took me 54 collections to get there”, perhaps it took that long to create a time travelling mechanism. The sorbet shades were a delightful contrast to the usual monochrome looks and there wasn’t a navy blazer or a gold button in sight. Stockings glistened as much as the models hair- that was mounted in a love-heart shape on top of each models head with a streak of silver to add couture edge. Sarah Mower of style.com noted the rococo heels as a favourite and the ‘ethereal cloud colours’ had the models floating down the runway.

Held in the Dior house, Galliano’s collection was inspired by Charles James and the Gibson Girls. Snug fitted jackets and long draped skirts were not far off creations from Christian Dior himself back in the 50’s. Some of the editors sitting in the front row had to strain their necks to get a glimpse at these looks as Tavi, fashion blogger extraordinaire, donned an elaborate Dior headpiece. People were in awe at how Valentino models were able to walk unscathed down the catwalk as they were blindfolded with matching flowing fabrics. The multi-coloured garments match the kaleidoscope of colour the make-up artists had created and had one confused that perhaps Valentino had hired Avatar extras to model for them this year.

Ricardo Tisci at Givenchy delved into the houses’ archive to produce a 70’s inspired collection. He couldn’t help but admire the powerful, strong, erotic phase of Parisian women back then and he related to them. The tailoring created a masculine exterior to the feminine beauty of the models with tuxedo tailcoats paired with ostrich printed t-shirts. The flamenco influenced layers and the midnight blue column dresses juxtaposed the androgynous aesthetic eloquently and made for an all-round risk taking collection that went down a treat.

One that was certainly a shock to the system was the looks created at Alexis Mabille. The two-tone suit of pink on one side and black on the other really set the mood at couture week which screamed surprise. The two-tone detail was present from the shoes on either foot to the hair and even eyebrows of each model, an attention to detail all of the other houses should make note of and admire. Karlie Kloss stunned the audience in a lilac embellished gown which stole the Armani Privé show.

Couture week in Paris always has high expectations and these were certainly met, but not outshone. All shows had a similar idea-to out do the other, but only a few of them managed to create looks that will certainly inspire other designers and trends to come in 2010.

My Music is Where I'd like you to Touch

2010-02-06T15:22:00.000-08:00

This was an article I wrote for a Kiss100FM competition. I made it to the final four which were published on their website, www.kissconfidential.com, but unfortunately I didn't win competition or the new laptop that went with it. I thought I was free of my broken-down old school lapper that is gurgling as I type but the blog must go on. This article also inspired the title of this blog with a a slight word adjustment- at least something good came out of it!

I first encountered music in the mid to late nineties. Whilst the housing estate was torn apart over the “Oasis or Blur” debate, us young girls fought over which member of Boyzone we loved the most. It wasn’t until secondary school that music became a way of life. Two categories separated us: rockers and chavs. I played sport and loved Metallica, so there were a few of us who sauntered in between both groups, testing the water in each to see which one suited our personalities.

Unfortunately I don’t have one of those ‘cool’ music stories whereby I stumbled across my parents’ old record collection in the attic. Instead, I had to figure it out on my own. My music taste was conflicted between that of my friends and the hip hop that was blaring from my sister’s bedroom. But no matter how brutal the music was in retrospect, it made me feel good. I could lash on System of a Down when I was in a terrible mood, or dance around to Britney when no one was watching.

The annoying thing about music is that you discover bands long after their sell by date. Split-ups, rehab and sad deaths all prevent us from seeing our favourite acts of time gone by. Luckily for me, Neil Young still had a bit of touring left in him a couple of years ago and I got to witness the master at work on three occasions (I admit that perhaps it was a bit crazed fan-like of me to go to three different countries to see him). It was only then once I had purchased my tickets and was listening to Harvest in my room that my mother announced that she would come to one of the gigs with me. She admitted that she was a big fan ‘back in the day’ and handed over her collection of old records that consisted of The Beatles, Bowie and Dylan. Instead of feeling privileged or delighted that I had original vinyls from the 1960s and 70s, I was outraged that she had never given them to me before and relieved me of hand-banging induced headaches years ago.

Music is love no matter how cliché it sounds. Everyone has a song that reminds them of someone else- be it an ex, a friend, a lover or a partner. The emotion a single lyric or melody can evoke is unfathomable. My first love introduced me to music properly the summer before university. He had had the advantage of two older brothers and he treated me as his protégé, giving me a new band every week and taking me to gigs of both new up and coming bands and golden oldies. From then on, I was hooked. Live music became quite a big part of my life, and my budget. I attended gigs whenever I could, some even required travelling around Europe. The feeling at a live concert can be electrifying, sometimes disappointing but always an unforgettable experience. Personally, music festivals are what I look forward to most every year. The diabolical living quarters and the disease infested portaloos are quickly forgotten about as soon as a band steps out on stage. Complete nirvana. You are soon catapulted back to reality however whilst searching for your tent in the dead of night having tripped over empty beer cans and broken deck chairs.

Music is for personal pleasure; to inspire, to connect people, to split up and to reunite. Music is intertwined with art and fashion, such as Studio 54 or a song the models stomp down the runway to. It also has the power to inspire the listener, intentional or not. There are so many magazines, music moguls and blogs telling people what to listen to but I think music should be your own choice, not be forced upon you. John Lennon eloquently said, “Music is everybody’s possession. It’s only the publishers who think that people own it”. People can be very pretentious when it comes to music, not listening to it because they want to but because someone is telling them too or they think it’s cool. Music also unearths an argumentative quality in people, in me too, and that makes for interesting conversations. Discussing how much Kings of Leon have sold out or who will the next big act are all well and good but music should definitely be a person’s own choice and should not be frowned upon or indeed discriminated against (even if they do still follow the Followill’s).

New music, like everything else, is more a reworked edition of what has gone before but with innovative sounds and beats. Technological advancements and financial backing have made it easier to experiment and come up with new ideas. With the grasp of the downloading phenomenon around record labels’ necks, musicians and managers alike have argued that the future of music is in danger. Record stores are being forced to close as the digital age takes hold but there is still an urge out there to buy a hard copy of a CD or vinyl, especially for die-hard music fans. There are so many different genres to listen to that will undoubtedly suit your personality and you may even find you’ve a wide eclectic music interest that will suit your every mood. I certainly have!

To quote CSS; “music is my imaginary friend”.

Killer Heels

2010-02-02T14:08:00.001-08:00

Icy pathways, slippery stairs, treacherous commuting conditions -surely one wouldn’t dare don a pair of heels- or would they?

Hardcore fashion lovers may have wrapped up in cashmere and snooded themselves in winters must have accessory but no matter how snowy or icy the ground became, nothing could tear them away from their beloved high heels. Luckily, no one caught my Naomi Campbell impression as I skidded my way into the New Year gracefully.

Celebrities are accustomed to wearing heels almost everyday and they certainly weren’t going to give up that easily when a bit of snow fell over the Christmas period. Alex Curran stepped out in towering studded heels while shopping in Liverpool. Across the frozen pond, Jennifer Lopez needed the help from her many assistants to stop her from slipping into the evil grasp of the dreaded paparazzi.

However caution must be taken during this tempestuous weather. Dr. Rick Pullinger, a consultant in emergency medicine said that “typically people were coming in with injuries sustained from slipping on the ice almost as soon as they stepped out of their front door”. Surely that shouldn’t dampen our spirits as much as the snow has dampened our hair?

To most of us, the Christmas period is all about style and a dazzling appearance. While the more sensible folk stuck to flats-dare I say my mother crunched on the ice in her golf shoes-us stubborn fashionistas could not attempt to leave the house without the uncomfortable comfort of our six inch wonders during the party season.

Perhaps this decision was justified by the many models that have slipped and slid their way down the catwalks over the years. Who can forget Vivienne Westwood’s monstrous strappy heels from her SS07 collection that had model Kamilia Wawryzina tip toeing and tumbling on the runway, watering can in hand. Or that poor Prada model from SS09 who has now become youtube.com gold receiving over 500,000 views since the video was uploaded a year ago. Even Alexander Mc Queen tested his models in his latest collection with futuristic moulded platforms Schiaparelli would be proud of. If heels can cause models to fall on a clean, obstacle free runway and get up smiling, what’s the harm in tackling the freeze in style?

Flats and festive glam simply do not mix, unless of course you are The Kills/The Dead Weather singer Alison Mosshart, but even she is partial to some Prada. She admitted to Alex Blimes in an interview in Vogue’s February issue that when she saw a pair of studded brown leather shoes on Kate Moss, she just had to have them.

It is undeniable that we put style before sense, and many of us have ended up succumbing to the power of ice by using it to nurture our battered feet after an attempted high heeled strut. Companies have tried to relieve the stubborn heel wearer by inventing items such as non-slip pads which help grip the ground better and may prevent falling, or at least looking like a duck waddling down the road. Maybe next year we will remember to bring a larger clutch to carry flats in for the walk home, along with a harness and ski sticks.

Forget Holmes, all you need is Watson this season

2010-02-02T13:47:00.000-08:00

These days it’s all about younger siblings upstaging you. The Geldolf sisters are constantly in competition with each other- Peaches was said to have stormed out of a club when her younger sister Pixie had apparently ‘stole’ her new goth image. Lindsay Lohan’s younger sister Ali is also on the rise and set to overtake her sister in the child star ratings this year.

Emma Watson sure has come a long way since the first few Harry Potter premiers where she was clad in matching tanks and cardigans. She now floats up the red carpet in designer gowns. It’s not only the magical film premiers she has been attending; this year has seen her social status soar and her fashion sense has too. As the face of Burberry’s Ready to Wear AW 2010 collection and is now friends with the brands creative director Christopher Bailey, Watson has blossomed into a fashionista that will certainly have her older equals green with envy. One look that epitomised her transformation was a canary yellow embellished Burberry dress which she wore to their catwalk show that closed London Fashion Week in September. This made her a force to be reckoned with and will certainly carry her into the next decade.

I don't know what they were fed when they were growing up but I sure would like to bottle it and sell it on Diagon Alley! Or at least have a splash myself.

Yet she seems to have cast a fashionable spell on her younger brother, Alex Watson. who has averted some attention away from his sister this year with a contract for Burberry Prorsum’s advertising campaign. Both are modelling in the Burberry campaigns for Christopher Bailey’s SS10 collection that are set to explode onto the high street with trench coat imitations popping up already. With similar features as Emma and a jaw line to die for, Alex is set to be a concrete feature in the model industry. He has also embarked on an acting career, posing as an extra in two Harry Potter films. However judging by these Mario Testino shots from their recent photo shoot, jealously will not get in the way of their sibling bond as it has done for other young celebrities.